Wednesday 25 June 2008

Graduate Job Hunt Struggle.

Aaah job hunting is a nightmare...where am I going wrong?

If you take away the nightmare words "Marketing", "Sales", "B2B", "Bluechip", "Recruitment" "Graduate agency" and "FHM=Fun+Hard work=Money!" you are left with.....(drumroll).....Nothing!

EVERY DAY I trawl the 'net and send my CV off via. email-I have stopped being discerning-it goes to whoever, whenever, (within reason, of course-I'm not being overly fussy, though).

The point is, I'm trying hard here and getting literally two replies a week (if that) saying "You do not suit our needs at this time"...mostly for secretary work! It does NOT take a genius to be a secretary, for God's sake! I can type! I can organise! I'm not a retard...(all of the time).

WHY DID I STUDY ENGLISH?!?!?!

I really wish I'd have known that it would be this useless. It's far too general, and teaching seems to be the inevitable miserable avenue down which most of my contemporaries venture.

Sods law dictated that I would only appreciate how useful and interesting foreign languages are AFTER I left University. If I could go back five years and tell my Uni fresher self about the job struggle and just how little an English degree prepares you for the practical world of work, I'm sure I.... would not have even listened, actually....(I was a stubborn child...)

But if I could go back, I'd do the sandwich degree of Journalism with a foreign language-two year at uni, one year STUDYING (not physically working) in a foreign country, then one last year at uni again. OH WHY DIDN'T I READ THE DAMN PROSPECTUS?!?!?!

In the words of that mulleted blonde-streaked eejit, Rod Stewart..."I wish that I knew what I know now..." etc...

Will someone give me a job, PLEASE?!?! How am I supposed to get on the ladder if nobody will give me a lift up? Telephone sales, marketing or recruitment agencies need not reply, thank you......

Saturday 7 June 2008

The Best Bars In Kokura

Kokura Bar Guide - The best bars and Cafes in Kokura, Kitakyushu, Japan.

My first chance to explore Kokura properly was Golden Week in April 2007. I'd been in Japan for about a fortnight, had no money and was waiting for my first wage packet.

The first few days of the holiday were a bit miserable, I wandered around with the impression that everything was concrete, dusty and uneventful to say the least. The 12 months ahead seemed grim and I started inwardly doubting if I could stick out my contract.

However, a change of perspective and adjusting from a big city (Manchester) to a smaller, more spread-out one made me appreciate Kokura. So did a year's worth of evenings and weekends meandering through little back streets, arcades and stations to discover the surprisingly varied nightlife going on there.

Most people living in and around Kitakyushu (Tobata, Yahata, Kurosaki, Kokura, etc...) will probably go to Tenjin in Fukuoka for a good night out.

But, anyone (JET's, OWL's or other teachers/expats/workers) finding themselves in Kitakyushu for a long stretch should check out these places in Kokura. 


Despite what they may first think, there is something for everyone and venturing into the smaller, weirder bars really makes for a memorable evening. You also tend to make some good friends, or at least get used to some regular faces.

I went wandering on more than several occasions and as a foreign woman on her own, did find it daunting at first.


But people are so friendly, or just plain curious, and they'll pretty much welcome you gladly once they relax a bit. Have a good one in Kokura and don't be scared to explore....enjoy!

PS) A map is on the way, apologies for the geographical guessing game until then.

Righa Royal Hotel (23rd Floor) Cocktail Bar

This place is amazing, a great bar to start your night. Don't be put off by the upmarket feel-you can turn up in jeans and T-shirt for a casual bar crawl or stay in there all evening in your best dresses/suits and jewellery. Cocktails are a reasonble price of around 1,000 Yen (approx £5) each, and are generous on the spirits. The decoration is minimalist, the lights and celings are low and a pianist and singer emerge from the rising curtain every night purring out slinky jazz (mainly Western) tunes. This is glamorous stuff, maybe the most top-end bar in Kokura. Plus, it also affords THE best 360 degree view of the city, including the starry lights across the straits. Lovely stuff.

The Rihga Royal cocktail bar can be reached by leaving Kokura Station through the North (back) and simply following the tallest building you can see. Even better, just head for the large glass tunnel leading from the back of the station, which takes your right to the hotel door.

Shirokiya

This place is a restaurant, but can be visited for a (massive) beer and a great atmosphere with friends. It's also good for some food before heading out, or home, for the night as you can order as much or as little as you like and enjoy the laid-back, very Japanese atmosphere. Quirky surroundings include a glass floor with rock gardens and sand, sliding paper doors, moody lighting and old wooden benches. 


Gen's

More to come....

Bumblebees

This the best place around for a cheap beer, a bit of reggae, projected Tom and Jerry movies on loop and a laid-back atmosphere. Marvel at the massive candle on the bar, shelves of spirits and very friendly owners. Last time I checked (April 2009), a beer was 400 Yen, one of the cheapest around. Can't go far wrong here.

Standing Bar

Standing bar, tucked away in Kokura's arcades, is a bit difficult to find, but rewarding once you do. Slot some cash into the machine for a voucher that you swap for beer and/or bar snacks, such as some shredded squid. Very welcoming, always some salarymen to chat to and a nice upstairs space to sit in.

Lucky Moon

Whether its the conspicuous English language sign outside, the cheap drinks and quirky surroundings or its relative easiness to find, Lucky Moon is one of Kokura's biggest expat magnets. Decked out inside like an old ship's galley, Lucky Moon has an impressive shelf of spirits and lots of cocktails and beers on offer. Friendly and reliable. No air con in summer, so be prepared to get your sweat on.

Moon Shan

This may be the most memorable bar in Kokura and one of it's best-kept secrets. If you can find it. From the outside, Moon Shan looks like a paper-covered wooden-framed window. If it wasn't for the misshapen bicycle decoated with fairy lights keeping watch outside, non-Japanese would not look twice at the place. However, once you've slid the door aside, a row of eyes look up surprisedly and you will find yourself in the smallest, messiest and most interesting bar in the town. 500 yen a beer and surprisingly good food on offer. Slide down the small alleyway next to 24-hour supermarket Maruwa to spot it.

Soap Bar

Cool, calm and slighty pretentious, Soap bar is angled firmly towards the arty crowd, but attracts a mixed bag of people of all ages and backgrounds. Sit on a matress surrounded by books and films being projected on the whitewashed walls. Regular art, film and music events are held here and the nonchalantly great-looking bar staff give it extra points.

Darts Bar

Throwing plastic darts at a plastic board with pre-drilled holes is surprisingly fun and a lot safer than metal ones after a few beers. Darts bar is the place to come for a bit of this action, with weird board games also dotted around the room. Drinks are reasonably priced and Western-friendly restaurant Wara Wara is just one floor above. Also in the same building is Big Echo karaoke - food, darts and singing all under one roof.

Nombe's

Nombe's is an ultra-late closing reliable watering hole for those living in Kokura and is well worth a visit for those by passing through. It's not so much the cosy wooden benches and atmosphere, but its jokey owner Wacki that is the attraction - he can always be relied upon to provide a giggle and some good company. For the summer matsuri festival, when the town comes out in full force in jinbeis and yukatas, he may bring the bar upstairs and out onto the street so drinkers can enjoy the warm summer nights out of doors. A glass of beer costs around 500 yen and there are lots of international bottles on the menu.

Coltrane's

This is an example of how, when the Japanese recreate Western culture, they go all-out to get it just right. Coltrane's is in the nightlife quarter of the city (hereby called 'the seedy quarter'), close to Bumblebees, Don Dada's and the Pitt Inn. A very limited number of guests can only just squeeze into the oblong shoe box-shaped bar. However, once in, a massive wall of spirits, brightly polished surroundings and a sole bartender dressed pristinely as a tuedoed, quiffed teddy boy will greet you. Watching the stoic ever-focussed barman mix your cocktails is a relaxing and impressive ritual. This doesn't come cheap, as one drink can often exceed Y1,000, but it's a good old treat nonetheless.

Moonbeams

Kokura's ultimate summertime bar in a prime spot slong the Murasaki River means you probably couldn't miss Moonbeams if you wanted to. Oposite Rivewalk shopping centre on the wooden boardwalk, Moonbeams sells coffee, beer and hot dogs in the day and at night is home to a great open air summer drinking spot, DJs and music. Don't miss it.

Pit Inn

This is as rough and ready as it sounds, but is fun, cheap and quirky with beers at around 400 to 500 yen. Throw the shells of the free monkey nuts provided on the floor and become a local. For some reason, they have shrine to the film 'Scarface' in the corner and the movie plays on a loop. I told you it was weird.

Booties Irish Bar

The only Irish-themed bar in the city, Booties is hard to miss, being on a major road, and is good for a Guinness or a whisky, if a bit pricey. The fish and chips are respectable for a hungry expat, but avoid the microwaved steak 'pie' at all costs.

Shot Bar

Called simply 'shot bar', this little European-style cafe with chequered tablecloths opens from early evening onwards. It's name is a little misleading as it has a big menu of food and snacks (all written in English and Japanese) as well as soft drinks, magazines and a table of items, such as jewellery and hair accessories for sale. Film posters dot the walls. Good prices.

Wara Wara

In the same building as darts bar, this restaurant branch has a similar set-up to the aforemementioned Shirokiya, but is busier, smokier and a little more rough around the edges. It is always a sure bet, however and the menus are translated in English and have huge pictures for failsafe pointing and nodding. You can find another Wara Wara just to the right as you leave Kurosaki Station - it's smaller and quieter, but no less tasty.

Bob's Bar

A small, but slightly-bigger-than-average bar based in a little room in the 'Wisteria' building, which is located on the edges of the seedy quarter. Bob's bar has free karaoke and a friendly American host (Bob). Good luck finding it - I think it's on the 6th floor...all part of the adventure, though!

Sex, Drugs and Rock N' Rock (SDR)

SDR is a filthy, peeling, painted, amazing little bar on the 4th floor of a building in the seedy quarter on the same road as Bob's Bar. It's great for its (fluctuating) happy hours, when beer is just 300 yen and cocktails 400 yen. Rock, metal and all kinds of great music is blasted out into the bar, which is painted like one giant tattoo and often attracts the expats.

Xelha's

Having being set up and owned by Scottish expat Colin, 'Xelah's Tropical Paradise' is now under the new, very capable management of a local. This is Kokura's quintessental expat bar, the place that will provide, without fail, a multi-cultural, well-travelled (and typically loud) crowd. Home comforts come in the form of an international drinks menu (scotch whisky, spirits, Guinness and Strongbow cider etc... ) as well as everything from thai green curry and rice to fish and chips and mango-flavoured ice cream. However, the dancefloor is what people come for at weekends, as there's always guaranteed to be something going on and a mixture of indulgently cheesy and OK songs. A pint will set you back around 500 yen.

Marroon

This is what aforementioned Colin of Xelah's resigned his original expat bar for. Marroon peddles itself as a more sophistocated, smaller and relaxed alternative to Xelah's. It has inherited some of the international facets of it's sister bar, but is decorated in red and white sixties-themed furniture, with the odd homely football strip and scarf gracing the walls. Reasonably priced beer, relaxed atmosphere and a bit of banter in English give this place its good qualities.

Grassroots

Serving the need for young, attitude-laden well-dressed loungers, Grassroots is a good place to go to relax and listen to a good range of cooler-than-thou dance/reggae/funk/soul music. A stint on the decks is not unheard of either, if you're nice enough to the bar staff. You also may catch sight of some locals kitted out in Blues Brothers-style outfits. They're probably not yakuza. Probably.

Break On Through

This bar can be hard to spot unless the sign is sitting outside of its heavy wooden door. However, the good news is, it's on the ground floor and once you're in, no more navigation is required. Beers come in at around 600 yen and you may be sitting in the company of some of Kokura's most dedicated rockers. Jim Morrison, the Who and sixties posters line the walls. The barman may show you his collection of strange memorabilia or put on a music video for drinkers nostalgic for some 60s sounds.

Megahertz

Unfortunately, Kokura is short on dancefloors, but Megahertz provides one of a few places to pull shapes. There are regular events held here, including live music and DJ nights. You can be sure of a friendly reception, decent prices and ambient surroundings, again, if you can find it, that is.

Birdmanhaus

This roomy student bar is in the backstreets near to Kitakyushu University and can be reached from the University monorail stop. It is THE best place to see a band in Kitakyushu. Easily bigger than most other bars and decorated to resemble and old living room, the walls are lined with shelves of CDs, any of which you can hand to the barman for a spin. Beer is around 500 yen and gin and tonics 7/800 Yen for a double. The old chintzy chairs, tall lamps and worn rugs give it a grungy feel, and along with the computer consoles scattered around, make a great place to be. Watch out for the rough-and-ready, but fun, toilet, which is (not so) artistically placed in the middle of a storeroom.

Folk Village

If it's live music you like, the the Folk Village is a decent bet. Japanese artists rule the playlist, so the experience doesn't get much more authentic than this. Drinks can be pricey (all in cans) and if you go on open mic night, which is free, the musicians may throw a few English songs or phrases in for fun - something that can be a giggle, but also generate a bit of self-consciousness. Tickets for better-known artists begin at around 2,000 yen and rise steeply thereafter.

Finally, just for fun, the Kokura Bar Awards. Applause please...

Best place for...

Outdoor summer drinks
Moonbeam
Kokura Castle/the shrine (get some cans and sit on the grass/stairs)

Music
Birdmanhaus
Megahertz
Moonbeam

Cheap Beer
Bumblebee's
Standing Bar
SDR

Food
Shirokiya
Gyu Kakku (great yaki-nikku)
Wara Wara
Raamen from street stalls

Cocktails
Righa Royal
Don Da Da
Coltrane's

Coolness
Soap Bar
Cafe Bongo
Grassroots

Japanese Racists/Xenophobics (will like to stare and possibly make fun of you...)
Break on Through
The Folk Village

After-work drinks
Standing bar

Karaoke
Bob's Bar
Festa's (maybe closed)
Big Echo

Arty surroundings/ film showing's etc...
Soap Bar
Megahertz

Expats
Xelah's
Lucky Moon
Maroon
Booties Irish Bar
Moonbeam

Late one
Nombe's
Bob's Bar
Festa's/Big Echo

Quirk
Moon Shan
Coltrane's
Pitt Inn


Hope you enjoyed this nonsense as much as me.
After just having an (unusually early for saturday) coffee (and gourmet jelly bean factory) breakfast with a friend down the road, we got onto the subject of saving then travelling then coming home and finding you want nothing more to be a penniless traveller again rocking up in a new place everyday.

It's so true-most people I met along my travels and stayed in touch with after the travelling was done have said the same...

"If you can make one heap of all your winnings
And risk it on one turn of pitch-and-toss,
And lose, and start again at your beginnings
And never breathe a word about your loss...

Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,
And - which is more - you'll be a Man, my son!"


This is the best thing in life-save up, go travelling, blow your cash, arrive back penniless. Repeat process until dead. Travelling is the new motgage and kids....except, unlike the model "man, my son", in Kipling's poem, I do moan quite a lot (you are now reading the physical evidence of this...)

Sorry, Rudyard, I'm ALMOST a perfect man, but then blogging came along and provided a vehicle for "breathing words of my loss......" We all gotta moan, my son. We all gotta moan.

Friday 6 June 2008

Unemployment-The rocks

I have fallen into the rut I didn't think I would when I was travelling about with my little rucksack, dreaming about how great it would be when I get back to the UK.

Six weeks into being home, I wake up, I make breakfast (always the same-muesli and hot milk) I spend about an hour on the internet, I shower, then look for and apply for jobs online (hardly ever any replies), I depress myself by looking at the Guardian Jobs site, where the vacancies are director this, chairman that, you must have one million years expeience in a similar, managerial role... AAAHHGghh. Faceless jobs I will never get-and probably wouldn't want, if I was thinking clearly right now.

Even Amnesty International, which you'd think would be all for a big 'everyone has the right to do what they like and be paid!!!' welcome, come on in!!... only ever advertises impossibly high up jobs which start a forty grand a year. Come on, man, forget prisoners of war, where are my human rights to a well-paid job, amnesty!?! I tell you...

Anyway, by the time the job hunt is over, I may or may not have a splitting headache with a nosebleed thrown in for luck (sitting at computers doesn't agree with me) and then I will go out for some length of time, usually just fora walk or to an art gallery (whic are all free here in Manchester-thank you New Labour!) before getting back in time to make my boyfriend's dinner then spend an average of four hours with him sitting in the living room before he has to go to bed to leave the flat ridiculously early in the morning (sometimes around 7am) in time to see me fast asleep and snoring, dreaming about being the chairwoman of Amnesty International...

I really must find a job soon, my sanity DEPENDS upon it!!!

Going to Russia and China made me re-think my long-standing rose-tinted admiration for Communism and generally fighting the system (oh riiiight!) but this has been the icing on the cake...the grass is ALWAYS greener, and unfortunately, right now, the grass for me is a job...
Didn't think I would EVER say that.

Typical Japanese Apartments: What To Expect.




Japanese apartment blocks tend to be owned by one person-slightly like in Briatin, though the landlord is more likely to take a lot more pride in the building and acually live on the top floor themselves kind of like some kind of penthouse footballer looking down over his empire.

The landlord usually owns the whole building, not just the prime position on the top floor. Here is an example of a Japanese apartment block-unfortunately you can't see it from this angle but it has the owner's name emblazoned on the side in massive katakana letters, like a big ship floating at sea (my apartment block-pink and white on the right side)....



Again, as I frequently found, my expectations had adjusted themselves to stereotypes (though I tried not to let them to) and I had osme image of a cramped, earthquake-swaying apartment space in my head. Therefore, the first surprise in store for me was the size- my apartment had more than enough room for one person, and good enough for having guests over to stay (which I did quite regularly-sometimes for weeks at a time). I had a walk-in closet, a small 'genkan' (hallway where you leave your shoes) and a walk in shower room, the inside of which was just a massive plastic fixture, watertight and great for making a mess in. The bath, however, may annoy your average Westerner, being very tall, but exceptionally short. Nice for a vertically challenged girl like me-I had no complaints about the bath. Except sometimes I filled it too high and almost cause a tsunami when I plonked myself in it...


Another great thing which I didn't know before I set foot in the place was that it had a BALCONY!! Woohoo!! Great surprise number two. Over the year, I didn't use it as much as I would have liked to, as it was quite small, noisy and a party ground for mosquitos in the summer, but, in Britain having a balcony is an abnormal privelage and reserved for people with a certain amount of cash.

In Japan, and other Asian countries I visited, such as Korea and China, having a balcony is as common as drinking water. In fact, the image of clothes strung out to dry across a balcony is almost synomymous with the East. When I think back over my travels-I can't seperate the two in my head.

Here is the view from my balcony....



NAH just kidding, this is it...



Har! Seriously, this time....



Not so bad, I always thought. Though, being near to the urban expressway (roads built over roads because of the volume of traffic which end up looking like a network of dusty, tangled legs) everything got FILTHY so quickly, (including washing) and no amount of attacking it with a brush and buckets of water would solve the problem.

Japanese toilets also seem to amaze people when they first encounter them (especially men, who are so fussy about luxorious toilets...wimps...) but I think this is the sheer gadgetry which seduces you at first. They have heated seats (if you turn them on far enough in advance)



In the end, I decided that I didn't really like these toilets at all. They're supposed to reduce the use of toilet paper, but it doesn't work like that at all, because you generally still use paper anyway. Plus,the only time when a heated seat is any good, on cold winter mornings, they take so long to heat anyway that I'm onto breakfast and out the door by the time they've warmed up. Plus, most people, including kidergarten teachers, just leave them on permanently. So, energy saving, my a%$e.... they are really there for the gadgetry.

The floors in Japanese apartments are always laminated wood. Maybe some people will have rugs over the majority of their floor, but, the floors will generally always be wooden. I did like my floor, dust and dirt just accumulate in drifts, making them easy to vaccum, and you can slide around on your socks at any time, always great a celebration when you receive good news. I used to polish mine up really well so that you could get a rug and slide right across he room-I did this for my apartment inspection, to give the inspectooors a little addd extra...

Bad points were that they carry echoes (so your neighbours get disturbed by your noisy habits) and if you sneakly slip up on the shoe rule, the floor marks quite easily...there were many times when I came home after a few too many and forgot to take off my heels...big mistake....

Something else noteably different is the use of electric stoves instead of gas, because of eathquake risks, and therefore, whistly kettles. I'm sure you can buy plug-in kettles, and there were extra sockets in my kitchen, but steam-operated ones which whistle seem to be quite popular. I did become quite fond of mine in the end, and it made me amazed when I got back home that the kettle boiled in under five minutes...bonus discovery...expectations lowered! I als used to play a little game, if I was busy when the kettle gave off it's feeble prelimiary whistle, I'd wait and see how long I could leave it befoere it broke out into an ear-shattering scream...kind of like chicken, but aged 24, and with a whistly kettle.

In the kitchen, everything was pretty much as it was except for the lack of hobs (one hob!) the whistly kettle and, of course, the OVEN SITAUTION! Nobody in Japan seems to own an oven bigger than, at best, a hamster cage. This is likely to be because of the gas situation again, but it's frustartaing for someone who loves a good cook up over a lovely blue flame.

I had one hob and a small microwave perched on the top of my fridge for cooking with. This is partly why eating out or buying a bento (see bento post...) is not only cheaper most of the time, but a lot more convenient. This is a pity, because I met a lot of people who liked to cook in Japan-especially bakery products, which are immensely popular.

Some of my students mothers, for example, used to bring me and my partner teachers bags of cookies or cake they had cooked themselves, and tasted (and were wrapped) like department store counter sweets. I'd love let some of those people in front of an Aga in a massive countryside kitchen with all the raw materials they needed to cook up a hurricane. I'll bet they'd beat Gordon Ramsays ass-if only they had the ovens to do it with...

On another little side subject, the things above are proved by the presence of these in the larger shopping malls....



There are two ABC cooking studios in Kokura-one in the Riverwalk shopping mall on the 4th floor, and one on the top floor of the Isetan department store. They were alwasy really busy whenever I passed them.

Anyway, back to my apartment. Another point worth mentioning which is quite a contrast to the West was the level of care the landlord took over absolutely everything. he was responsilbe for finding new tennants, so (unlike here when you deal with stoic Estate Agents), he cared whether or not your apartment was in a decent state when you left, and, as long as you were honest about things you may have damaged, he seemed to be a reasonable man on this point.

One of my fellow teachers had made a fist-shaped hole in his wall, and, though everyone (maybe including himself) thought he was gonna fry for it, the landlord apparently giggled when he explained how it had happened (in sign language, of course...) and said he'd repair it quite easily. I suppose we had the advantage of having our company deal with our accomodation, however, as some expats tell nightmare stories of the dreaded 'Key money' situation and being not too well favoured as a Western neighbour by other dubious residents.

See here... http://forum.japantoday.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=947110&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

Or here...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_money

So, stay on the right side of your landlord (this goes for pretty much anyone in Japan...collegaues, acquaintances, the little old lady in the shop..) and you shouldn't get any trouble.

Though nobody was officially named (although if you asked the boss after a few he'd cover his ass with the trial and error game so he didnt actually say it out loud..."Was it Johnny?" "Nooo,"/"Was it Jenny?" "Nooo"..."Was it Paul?"...*Silence*) there was a time when I first moved in that an unsatisfactory Email was sent around...

Can you all make sure that you put out your rubbish as stated below, in the right bags (which you buy from a convenience store).

Mr (Landlord's name) doesn’t seem too happy with people putting their rubbish out any old how.

Thanks a lot

(Bosses name)

The photos attached show how to separate your rubbish and do your recycling in Japan...




There are colour coded bags for everything, and while this was sometimes a pain, it is actually a really good thing, and not difficult to adjust to. The Japanese over-package SO much (there are plastic wrappers over plastic containers of pocket MINTS for God's sake!) and I was always shocked by how quickly I filled up the green bags (for plastic wrapping) with food packaging.

On a proud note, Kitakyushu is supposed to be a pioneering city of waste disposal, since getting a poor name for itself as an ugly industrial eyesore in the sixties before cleaning up its act...

http://www.city.kitakyushu.jp/pcp_portal/PortalServlet;jsessionid=FFFAC55B8A6BF057480
ED2C04B31F889?DISPLAY_ID=DIRECT&NEXT_DISPLAY_ID=U000004&
CONTENTS_ID=14935

The only thing missing from all of this stringent recycling organisation is PAPER. There is no home paper recycling facility, which would be useful for the massive volume of junk mail which accumulates in your mailbox on a daily basis (it has to be seen to be believed). Ah well, we all have an achillies heel...

Anyway, thank you for reading this little snippet on Japanese apartment from the point of view of a wide eyed not so fresh faced Twenty something Northerner-I hope it is of some use in some shape or form.