Visiting Beppu.

On Friday 21st December, Terry and I finally ventured to a part of Japan I've wanted to see even before I got here-the town of natural hot springs, Beppu. Because kyushu is a sub-tropical Island, it is host to several volcanoes and areas of natural spas and spring water. We went to Beppu, a resort on the way to Oita and not that far from mount Aso in central Kyushu.

When we arrived at Beppu station, there was a really good tourist information point (despite what I've heard about it being a very insular town) and the woman there spoke perfect English, was really helpful and recommended a good onsen. We got on a bus and went up towards the "hells"- the main tourist attractions which are pools there for looking at rather than bathing, as, being mosty between 90-100 degrees, they are far too hot for a dip.

To get into all eight Hells costs either 440 Yen each (about 1.60) or you could buy a pass for all of them for 2,000 Yen (about 10.00) . We got the pass and walked into the nearest hell, the "oniishibozu-jigoku" or "monks head hell" which is so called because it's clay rather than water, and the smooth bubbles which rise as each pool coughs up clay are said to look like the bald heads of monks. This was my favourite I think, take a look at the textures and colours of the bubbling pools...
The monks head hell also had a shallow circular

rock pool dotted with seats around the edges so tourists can sit with their feet in some natural spring water. It was a fairly cold day, and to feel the hot water simultaneously with the cold air was great, a new experience for me. When we put our socks back on, our feet felt really good and stayed warm and soft for at least an hour. "It's like walking on kittens". Thanks to Terence for the simile...

Next door to the monks head hell is "Umi jigoku" which is said to resemble the sea, and is a lovely vivid blue pond into which baskets of eggs were suspended to make the famous Beppu tamago (eggs). They are dunked then sold to tourists because of their distinctive, soft consistency. At this hell they also had boiling bright red pools, and fierce mounds of steaming rocks. It has a nice souvenir shop where we bought some bath salts and soaps made from salts from the blue pond.

The third hell we visited, "yama jigoku" or "mountain hell", was one with a mini-zoo attached. Aside from some bubbling, fiercely steaming rock mounds, there was no distinctive hell as such but we noticed nearby a drop over a wall with a small pond below. Suddenly there emerged the massive, wrinkled leathery head of a HIPPO protruding from the water.

When it saw us it propped its chops up against the wall and opened it's massive, slavering jowls. It's mouth was pink and gummy, it's big cushiony sides nursing a purple, hairy greedy tongue. Behind us we noticed a stall with little plates of cut potatoes perched on it, (an honesty box) and for 100 Yen you could have a plate to feed the hippo. Who could resist that? Unfortunately, there was also an elephant across the way locked in a small, stinking enclosure, swaying its head from side to side and looking completely depressed. I'll spare you the photo, I think.

After the zoo hell, we went into another which
was quite similar to the sea-like one, the "kamado jigoku" or "oven hell".
It's so called because local people once used it to cook their food.

The first thing you notice is a muddy, deep red clay pool and a large model of a red devil perched on a rock in the centre overlooking the little circular place.

The ponds were beautiful here too, with plenty of eggs in little metal bowls perched on rocks to cook. This one is also famous for it's white rocks and sulphur content, I got a snap of some of the gorgeous colours and textures of the rocks at the edge of the pool...

This hell also had a big area for visitors to buy eggs and also sit on wooden benches and immerse their feet in the milky blue waters as they chat. We decided to plod on, however, as our tickets said the hells all close up at around five O'Clock.

Next up was the "oniyama jigoku" or "monster mountain hell". The place is so naturally hot it creates the perfect environment for...a beach? No. A swimming pool? No! BREEDING CROCODILES, of course. Why this is, I don't know, but it's a good tourist spot as you can get quite close to them. They are fairly ugly articles, crocodiles, but it was cool to see some, as I'm

not even sure if i've ever seen any in person at all. Look at the skin on 'em, nice handbag
that...joookiiing....Don't take offence (the late) Mr.Irwin..

After the crocodiles, we went to see if we could walk to the other two hells, which are a little distance away from the five hells clustered around one another near Kannawa Bus stop.

Unfortunately, we walked the wrong way (I think...) and eventually gave up on finding them before it went dark. The maps we had didn't seem to be really accurate and as it's generally quite a local and run-down place aside from the hells, we had a bit of trouble with navigation. We did, however, end up on a steep walkway up towards Beppu castle and at least got a good view of the steaming cauldron of a city below...

Another reason we didn't persist in finding the last two hells was the enthusiasm we had for hunting down the onsen recommended to us at the Beppu Information desk. The "Hyosan onsen" was where the lady said we could get a private outdoor bath before showing us some gorgeous photos and drawing a map. So, on a mission for some baby-soft skin and the ultimate relaxing soak, we found the place easily enough and had our first ever hot spring!

We went in and the women who worked there showed us photos of four different private onsen. One had a waterfall (for massages and help with acheing joints) but we chose a cozy-looking outdoor one in the end. There is a vending machine with tokens for soap, shampoo, yukata, towels etc...so we bumbled about with that before being shown to a little wooden hut by the entrance to the building. For only 2,000 yen (again, around ten pounds) we had the room and bath to ourselves for an hour. It was AMAZING! There was a small room where you changed, then an outdoor area with a washing space.

The Japanese insist on washing BEFORE getting in an onsen, because the emphasis is not on cleaning, but relaxing in naturally hot water. However, I cheekily ignored the hair wash rule for the sake of a photo...

Taking the private outdoor bath was definetely one of the best things I have EVER done. The water was boiling hot (almost too hot for the first half hour) but cooled gradually. The lady who showed us in turned on a big old rickety tap and the small stone pool filled up right away with steaming, slightly salty water. Then, we undressed and washed, got on in and just floated away. We went at exactly the right time of evening, as during our hour there the sky began to darken and the air got colder, so we had the feeling of wintery air contrasting with the hot, deep bath as the little lanterns glowed in the dark.

I'd highly recommend this onsen to anyone who should visit Beppu in the future. You also get to keep the free little towels in their branded bags as souveniers. I'm not going to wash mine so it keeps it's spring water smell.After the onsen, it started to rain and we were having troubles finding Kannawa Bus Stop again, so we jumped in a taxi to Beppu station. There were a fair amount of bars in the arcades around the station, though they looked pretty local and quiet, so we just took a walk and got back on the sonic to Kokura. This was one of the best days I've ever had, and maybe even the best in Japan so far. I'll never forget it.